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Great Divide Mountain Bike Route
Journal Week 4

Preface | Week 1 | Week 2 | Week 3 | Week 4 | Week 5 | Week 6 | Week 7 | Week 8 | Week 9 | Week 10

 

Day 19 - Section 1B - Montana

08/13/06
Butte, MT 192 to Beaver Dam Campground via detour 228m = 36 miles

The Detour


I picked up a week to two weeks worth of supplies in Butte, a bit more than usual, and my trailer felt really heavy. It will be a while before I will see another full service grocery store. Most of the small towns I have passed through have no grocery stores or a very limited selection of healthy food and no selection of fruit. The majority of my food weight was fruit.

I left Helen going east on a frontage road paralleling I-90. I then traveled under the I-90 bridge, crossed over some railroad tracks, and walked up to I-15. I rode on I-15 until I reached a frontage road which took me to another frontage and then to Divide Creek Rd. It was an excellent detour. It was slow going because of a strong head wind. Riding on the freeway was very safe and I felt very comfortable. I was passed by about twelve cars over 5 miles. The shoulder was wide enough to be its own lane.

Once I hit dirt, the trail was fairly nice and easy going.

I reached the Beaver Dam Campground by late afternoon. I almost missed it because there was no sign telling me to turn right at the entrance. Why the name “Beaver Dam Campground”, not sure, there is no dam. It is a nice, safe feeling campsite. Tonight I am the only camper out of 20 spots.

I had a lasagna dinner with tea and went to bed.


Day 20 - Section 1B - Montana

08/14/06
Beaver Dam Campground 228m to Price Camp 272m = 44 miles

The Insane Fleecer Pass


The word for today’s ride, GRUELING! I woke up feeling rested and hit the trail going up to Fleecer Pass.

Fleecer Pass looking back from where I rode - no trailThe trail was very beautiful and the riding was good, but it was very steep in some parts. Near the top of Fleecer Pass it was very easy to get lost. It was an exposed grassy knoll, but the route leaves the official looking trail and goes right were there is no trail. This off trail diversion lasted for only 200 yards, but it was confusing. The confusion lies in thinking you are going to the top of a mountain, but you are only summiting a lower pass.

Once you reach the top edge of the pass you realize why you couldn’t see the trail continuing. The trail went down a 45-degree embankment. It was too steep and rocky to ride with a trailer! It took me an hour to walk down, even though it was less than ½ a mile long. I had a lot of difficulty maintaining both my foot traction and bike traction. My trailer always wanted to jack knife every time I stopped. Walking a bike with BOB trailer is a bad idea, but it was the safest. I can’t imagine having to do this in the rain and I can’t imagine having to go up this if you’re bicycling the trail from South to North. NOTE: If you are going from South to North, find an alternate around Fleecer Pass. It would be very dangerous to try and climb it with a loaded bike and if you do, plan on taking several hours to climb it.

I was very relieved, once I reached the bottom of the pass. But that is also were I crashed. The bottom of the pass is semi-flat and very muddy. The trail becomes a small creek bed which is not much of creek. It is more like a marshy stream feed by a low flowing spring. There are a lot of cattle in the area so it smells rank from cow dung. The stream has a lot of dung in it and thousands of leaches. My map fell into the stream and within seconds it had leaches all over it. As I was getting started again, my front tire dug in and I fell off my bike. I landed on my two feet, but my bike handle bar grip and shifter landed in to the biggest cow patty I had ever seen. Worst yet, the cow patty was fresh. YUK!

Today's ride was challenging enough without Fleecer Pass and yet I felt great. My knee problems had complete subsided and I felt as if I never had any knee pain. My body felt stronger and my riding style is becoming more efficient. My endurance is also radically improving.

The rest of the day was on pavement. I reached Price Camp at sunset. It was a nice designated campground with a water pump and pit toilets. 

Reflecting on what I have experienced thus far, I have learned that maintaining proper hydration is really important and using Cytomax, a sports drink supplement, has helped tremendously for my endurance. Also eating more carbohydrates and less fat has also helped. The biggest improvement has been my new bicycle. I am so much more efficient of a rider and can cover much more ground in the same amount of time with fewer needs for breaks.


Day 21 - Section 1B/2A - Montana

08/15/06
Price Camp 272 to EOS 283m to Grant, MT 30m = 41 miles

Gotch Ya!


Despite all the obstacles I encountered today, the day still ended great. My troubles begun with my speed odometer battery dying, and then I lost my downhill run, had to compete with day long head winds, were almost bit by a rattle snake, and battled ferocious rains. Yet with all this I still made decent mileage and had fun riding.

My speed odometer’s wireless sender unit battery froze last night and died.

I was looking forward to steep 8 mile downhill immediately after leaving Price Camp. A ¼ mile down the road was a road construction crew. A sign was posted “Road Construction - No Bikes No Pedestrians”. I had to get a ride in one of the construction workers truck's and they drove me all the way down to the bottom of the hill. Apparently, they are paving the dirt road in this section.

Most of today's ride was paved and on a slight up hill grade. By mid morning I was riding in a windy desert valley. Threatening thunderheads were chasing me until noon. They eventually overtook me and let loose their fury. The clap of thunder vibrated violently in my sternum and the lightning was blinding. I was out in the wide open with no where to go but straight down the dirt trial for 15 more miles. Fortunately, the trail was very sandy and the water seeped into the soil quickly making for easy riding. This was the first time I had to use my rain gear and it was not too bad. To my surprise it was fun riding in the rain. But the lightning scared me as it was almost directly overhead.

Around 2pm I stopped at the 1800’s Bannack cemetery to have lunch. It is a ghostly looking place with its ornate wrought iron fenced in tombs and over grown sage. I strolled through the cemetery and was amazed to read that almost all the people buried there were younger than 37, on average 22 years old, and they dated back to the early 1800’s. Back in the corner was one particularly creepy looking grave site. It had a rusty gothic wrought iron fence and had a and leaning towering marble tombstone. As I walked towards it I heard a hissing sound. I stopped dead in my tracks with one foot still in the air. A few inches in front of me slithered the biggest and fattest rattle snake I have ever seen. It was close to 5 feet in length and it had a lot of rattles on its rattler. After it slithered down into a hole next to a grave I was standing Grants, MTnext to, I high tailed it out of there so fast I would have won the Olympics!

It was about 5pm when I rode into Grant. Grant is nothing more than a seasonal lodge with a café. A rancher converted some old worker huts into a bed and breakfast. It was better than staying out in this weather and the café had great food.


Day 22 - Section 2A - Montana

08/16/06
Grant, MT 30m to Lima 98m = 68 miles

Slow and Fast


Last night I had a mouse infiltrate my bag of bagels and ate this week’s lunch. I had left them on the kitchen counter in my room.

After breakfast I hit the trail going towards Lima, MT, which was a very lofty goal. It rained all night so the trail was a bit soft this morning. Everything was wet and beautiful. The air was fresh and crisp. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky. It was a great time to be riding.

By mid morning those nasty head winds kicked up and within two hours the thunder heads moved and it started to rain. The rain and wind really slowed me down. By late afternoon I reached Medicine Lodge Sheep Creek Divide just as it started to thunder. I was feeling really tired and nutritionally depleted. Then my rear tire went flat.

In the pouring rain I took off the rear tire, patched it, and pumped it up with my hand pump. I was really disappointed that I had gotten a flat. The last time I had a flat was in 1986, some 40,000+ miles ago. Since then I had always used Mr. Toughy thorn proof Teflon strip’s. On my new bike I am running much fatter tires then what the Toughy’s were made for and they cut the inner tube.

As I started to descend from Sheep Creek Divide the winds changed direction and gave me a strong tail wind. For the next 38 miles the landscape was a flat basin desert with tall canyon walls. In the basin, the trail was sandy with hard pack an inch below the surface and I averaged 30mph. The canyon area looked like the perfect movie set for an old train robbing western movie. At one time the canyon section used to be an old railroad grade.

I made it into Lima before dusk and I went to the first hotel I saw. I entered the sales office which was also the café and the first person I saw was Peter! We laughed; Peter and Yoke had arrived earlier in the afternoon and met some other riders that were doing a small section of the route. They decided to camp in an old cow stable last night near Sheep Creek Divide when it started to rain. We had dinner and talked for several hours before retiring for the night.


Day 23 - Section 2A - Montana

08/17/06
Lima 98m to Backside of Lima Reservoir Improvised Camp Site 122m = 24 miles

ZAP!


Today was hellishly brutal. It was one of those days I repeatedly asked myself “Why am I doing this?”

This morning was nice and clear and the Weather Channel forecasted clear sky’s for the next few days.

After breakfast I updated my GPS unit with the next 1000 way points using the hotel’s computer.

Before leaving town around 9am, I stopped at the gas station to fill up my tires when the rear tire popped. Again, my tube was cut by my Mr. Toughy. After patching my inner tube I pulled out the Mr. Toughy left it out.

Lima Reservoir in MTWithin an hour of riding, the sky’s clouded over with thunder heads. Once I reached the Lima Dam it had started to rain and the head winds blew strong and steady. With an exception of an hour, it rained all day. The thunder and lightening was off in the distance but not too far off.

The trail was very sandy and soft but not muddy. The soft trail combined with the constant wind just zapped the energy from me. I was averaging about 2 mph. By 3pm I was hungry, tired, and miserable. I struggled just to ride straight.

After the lightning strike at the Lima Reservoir in MTTwo to three hours had passed where there was no thunder or lightning and it hadn’t rained for an hour. I was hoping the sky’s were going to clear up when, POW! Fifty feet in front of me a lightning bolt hit. My whole body felt sharp pins and needles. The lightning struck twenty feet lower than were I was riding. I could smell the o-zone and I saw the small dust cloud the lightning made when it hit the muddy ground. It happened so fast that I didn’t have time to be scared. A 3-foot radius around the spot were the lightning had his was completely dry.

It was early evening and I was feeling totally beat after only 24 miles. On the southern side of Lima Reservoir, I saw an old abandoned cabin, next to the trail, and decided to camp there. As I neared the cabin I realized that the group of section riders I met the Camping next to a cabin on the southern side of Lima Reservoirnight before were also there. They arrived a half hour earlier and they left Lima about two hours before me.

We talked until after dinner and then we went to bed as the sun set. I am so tired I can hard stay awake to write in my journal. At least I am cozy and dry in my tent.


Day 24 - Section 2A - Idaho

08/18/06
Improvised Camp Site 122m to Sawtell Resort, ID 184m = 62 miles

Montana to Idaho


I was up at 7am and ice was everywhere, even my water bottles froze, but at least it was sunny. After breakfast I packed up and hit the trail. I pulled some high mileage today and the conditions were great.

This morning was nice and peaceful and the ride was really enjoyable. The rain made everything smell fresh and earthy. The air was crisp and the temperature was very refreshing at 30F degrees. It was a great time to be on a bike!

I had half a bottle of water left. I knew there were several ranches along the route this morning. I stopped at the second ranch on the route and tanked up. I met a nice lady there whom invited me in her home and we talked for a few minutes.

Continental Divide crossing #6, “Red Rock Pass” elevation 7,120 ftBy 12pm I crossed the Continental Divide, “Red Rock Pass”, going into Idaho. Entering Idaho meant I could check off Montana as one more milestone achievement. Idaho welcomed me with lots of big, beautiful, pine trees. For too long I had traveled in a desert landscape and it felt great to be among trees again.

In the late afternoon I rode into Sawtell and got a room at the Sawtell Resort. It was expensive, but the alternative was a packed RV campsite, at only half the price, but loaded with noisy RV campers and rambunctious teenagers on ATV’s. 


Day 25 - Section 2A - Idaho

08/19/06
Sawtell Resort, ID 184m to Warm River Campground, ID 219m = 35 miles

Volcanic Sand from Hell


This morning was bight and sunny and it looked like it was going to be a nice day. About 3 miles into my route I was getting bombarded by hundreds of ATV’s. They were kicking up so much dust I could hardly breathe and had several near miss collisions. There are a lot of very young kids, 10-16 years old, riding these big machines and they were whizzing by very fast and too close. I have never seen so many of these things in one place.

Unfortunately, the heavy traffic from these ATV’s pulverized the trail’s volcanic soil into sand and it is near impossible to ride on. So I turned around and took the designated alternate. I DO NOT recommend taking the alternate unless you want a work out from hell. After the first few miles the trail turns soft, just as it was before I turned around, and it climbs up some very long and steep hills. The ride wouldn’t be so difficult if the trail wasn’t so sandy.

I made it to the Warm River Campground at dusk. It was packed full with campers. I got the last spot do to a cancellation. It was very formal and almost felt like a city park.


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The Great Divide Mountain Bike Route, GDMBR, also called the Great Divide Route, GDR, Great Divide Trail, GDT, is the mountain bike touring version of the Continental Divide Trail, CDT. Pictures may not be used without consent. The off road ride extends from Banff Canada to Roosville, Montana MT, Idaho ID, Wyoming WY, Colorado CO, to New Mexico NM, Mexico. Long distance mountain bike touring 05/17/2008 Site Map